Science has, on occasions, been described as both "dry" and "boring"...two words that are not generally linked to surfing in any way. Pitched firmly in the middle of the science-curious surfer, or the surfing scientist, this is a great general exploration of the science behind wave formation, from large scale meteorological effects to the very local beach structure and wind effects.
Sadly it doesn't go into much depth concerning the hydrodynamics and technology that actually lets you ride the things, but that's probably a hugely technical step to take with what is, in essence, a highly specialised popular science book. If you're a nautical type of any description, surfer, kitesurfer or sailor, there's plenty in this that will grab your interest.
Surf Science Tony Butt, Paul Russell, Rick Grigg Alison Hodge Publishing ISBN: 9780906720363